Thread Tools. Sep 24, 1. Messages: It seems like most people use speed film over speed film. I can see the reason, as it will give you better low light pictures than speed film and let you use higher shutter speeds. I also have a roll of Ektar , will this require a huge amount of light or how does it compare to sunny days vs Portra And, why is Portra more expensive than and Ektar? Both have flash built in, and my point and shoot has automatic flash.
Sep 24, 2. The ISO rating works such that film is twice as sensitive as film, and film is twice as sensitive as film. It just so happens that shutter speeds listed on cameras and aperture stops work this way as well. And the difference between f8 and f5. This may make it a bit easier for you conceptualize the difference between the films. It is quite hard to get nice looking noon time shots -- this may be your problem more so than any film can correct for.
If the light doesn't look good then a faithful reproduction of it by the film won't look good. Sep 24, 3. Messages: 2, Colour Negative film used to be about ASA Sep 24, 4. For fine grain color I prefer to shoot Ektar in sunny conditions. Another option is Ektachrome or Provia if you don't mind shooting slide film.
You will loose some latitude with slide film but it is very fine grain. I tend to shoot much more slow film in the ISO 25 to range. I only use faster film, ISO and up, for low light conditions. Lifeguard Tower by Bryan Chernick , on Flickr. Sep 24, 5. Messages: 3, Sep 24, 6. ISO films still exist- though most are black and white. You don't mention fujicolor, but I'm assuming you prefer Kodak's color balance. I suppose we change the iso on the camera in order to use its photometer, to have to correct exposure.
Hope you can help me, thank you so much! So in an extremely sunny environment, using portra color film, I measured my light slightly wrong. Using a shutter speed of , iso box speed , and F22 while it actually should have been F Am I then pulling or pushing my film? I am a beginner in film photography. This article really helps. It is simple and straight to the point. Thank you very much for the effort. Everything can be so random that the process itself is something so exciting for me. You could achieve a lot of different results just by changing the developing time or the chemicals or if you push or pull the films.
I have a Nikon L35AF that has a max iso of See our complete guide on pushing and pulling film. The affordability, versatility, and similarity makes it an attractive alternative to Tri-X. As a […]. I have some Ilford I shot it at Do I need to put -1 on the canister? Or will it be fine at developing at box speed? I also did the same with Fuji Provia F. Thank you so much for this informative article.
Hey All! I just shot a client shoot and forgot to change my light meter to the right ISO. The film is Portra , and I shot it at When I send it to the Darkroom for processing, what should I do? For context, it was very even lighting around 7 pm, color negative film.
Thank you! If you want to know the difference between two ISO ratings in stops, the formula is as follows. This is a logarithmic function. Applying that to your settings, you shot Portra at meaning an overexposure. Enough of the maths. A lab might not be able or willing to accommodate this, so you may need to choose between 1 or 2 stops of pulling. Film is very light-hungry but tends to cope better with overexposure.
Even when overexposed you can usually get enough definition from the highlights, which roll off elegantly with film. So the best bet would be to go for a 1 stop pull. Your film still ends up 0. Film also usually has a higher latitude for overexposure than underexposure.
A 1 stop pull instead of 2 would also result in less colour shifts and less flattening of the contrast. The necessary corrections can be done when making prints or scanning. By now your film may already have been developed and printed or scanned.
Greg Shaw In both cases you would indeed want to have the processing pulled by one stop. Stephen Caserta That is indeed a correct calculation. The film is 1. Labs often will only push or pull in full stop increments. If you develop yourself you could try to extrapolate the correct development time based on the data for a 1 and 2 stop push. So you would have underexposed. That means push processing is the way to go.
Nora If you can put the camera in full manual control, setting both the shutter speed and aperture, then the correct settings according to an external light meter would work just fine.
After all that is sort of what the light meter of the camera does anyway. But you need to make sure to use the light meter properly. In some cases you may want to measure reflected light, in other cases incident light.
Andrew Lindsay It would depend on the developer. Your best bet here is to experiment to find what works. Because is a larger format, this means that each roll only holds 16 shots or less instead of the usual 36 on the 35mm film canisters.
You can typically buy the more expensive, modern cameras at any branded cameras shop, like Leica , Canon , or Nikon. The one thing you MUST look for when purchasing an older or even slightly used camera is to ensure with the previous owner or manufacturer that the camera works.
However, some better symbolize my work than others, and some will better represent your work differently than mine. It is the art of using a different ISO speed for a more technical or creative approach used on black and white and color film.
Due to the complicated process of what might seem like an intimidating start, we broke this process down to make it easy to understand and implement into your film photography. There are several reasons why you might want to push your film. Low light is the most common reason why people push their film images 1, 2 or 3 stops.
Pushing can also be a fun and unique way to change the look and vibe of your Black and White canisters to receive more contrast or grain; a desirable look for monochrome photography.
For color film, the hues tend to be more saturated with a few pushes. Typically, you might want to push your speed film, such as Ektar , 2 stops or more during a cloudy day to receive better shadows and contrast as it develops to ISO.
Pulling your film applies this same concept, except in the opposite direction. For a more creative approach, pulling film mutes colors and flattens the image with less contrast. Simply set your camera to the despired camera speed something different than the film speed and shoot the film as you normally would.
The rest is done with your development lab.
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