They can be cut to size and inserted between framing, such as studs and joists. Standard fiberglass batts have R-values ranging from R Insulation Rolls are basically Batts in rolls that have pre-cut widths to fit between studs and joists.
The Rolls come in continuous lengths ranging from to feet. Foam boards can be cut to size and inserted between framing, such as studs and joists, and then covered with drywall.
Spray Foam is created by injecting two liquid chemicals from a spray gun which react to form a foam. It then hardens to create a very strong air barrier. Spray Foam can be injected in the cavity formed between the studs and drywall. Personally I think this is an overkill for a detached garage. Standard drywall has some sound absorption properties and will muffle sound to some degree. However, it is the insulation that you put in the stud bays that really helps in absorbing sound. The fiberglass insulation absorbs the sound that would otherwise easily travel through the air pockets between wall framing.
Mineral wool or cellulose insulation are likely going to do an even better job at sound absorption. If you are going to use your garage for music practice or jamming then you may have to consider more effective soundproofing. A simple DIY way to significantly reduce sound transmission is to use one layer of Green Glue Noiseproofing Compound between two layers of drywall.
It is fast, easy to use, highly cost effective, and it works. Application is as easy as Cut the drywall to spec. Apply Green Glue Noiseproofing Compound with any standard quart-sized calking gun. Screw into the existing wall or new drywall and enjoy. Another way you can take your soundproofing to a higher level is by using soundproof drywall instead of the standard drywall.
If you are more curious about soundproofing your detached garage, check out my blog post Soundproofing A Garage Workshop? This unique composition makes gypsum fire resistant. And even after that gypsum will not catch fire. Section R The garage shall be separated as required by Table R Openings in garage walls shall comply with Section R This provision does not apply to garage walls that are perpendicular to the adjacent dwelling unit wall.
The above code is not applicable if the detached garage does not have a dwelling unit ADU attached to it. So you could use other sheathing material such as plywood or OSB.
But quite often you may have added or plan to add one of the following:. Gypsum Board, which is ICC-certified for sag resistance and eliminates the need for separate wall and ceiling panels. Now if a detached garage has an apartment alongside or above it then 1 and not 2 will apply. Gypsum Board, which has a fire-resistant gypsum core and provides additional fire resistance over regular panels.
Please do keep in mind that IRC rules and the interpretation of those rules may differ across municipal bodies. So please do check with your local body. This post is only to be used as a guideline. Drywall is easier to work with than some of the other sheathing building materials. You require far less tools too! For the most part you are installing complete 4 ft. Even when you have to cut the large board to size, all you need is a utility knife and a straight edge or drywall T.
Run your knife along the straight edge and just bend the drywall at the cut. I also highly recommend getting another set of hands to help you lift the drywall sheets into place and secure them. Drywall and concrete are both extremely porous. I also added an L-shaped metal channel designed for roofing applications to help channel any water spills along the bottom of the wall and out through the garage door. All it took was a little construction adhesive to lock it into place, and a small bead of silicone sealant to keep water from getting underneath the metal.
Every other sheet of drywall you hang will depend on this. If you make a mistake here, you may not figure out how bad it was until you reach the end. Put the first piece of drywall snug up in the upper corner of the wall where it meets the ceiling.
If you elect to start from the bottom like I did, you can use scrap pieces of wood to raise the drywall sheet off the concrete floor. I only recommend starting from the bottom if you have a garage that will exactly fit your drywall sheets without cutting any to fit.
Otherwise, start from the ceiling. Garages slope slightly so that any liquids that spill on the floor will run out towards the garage door. When you have to decide where you have to leave a gap, look for the place that will stand out least. We can cover up both gaps, but the farther away the gap is from eye-level, the easier it will be to cover up. Secure each sheet of drywall with drywall screws along each stud, just as you did with the first sheet.
We can fill anything up to a one-inch gap, but ideally, you want to make the gap as small as possible. Take measurements at the top and bottom of the empty section. Grab a fresh sheet of drywall, or a scrap section with enough area to make the cuts.
Even if you make perfectly straight cuts, the factory edges are rounded slightly to help them fit together smoothly. Mark them on the front of the sheet, not the paper backing. We want to make the cut just deep enough that we can fold the sheet along the line like you see below. With the sheet folded along the line, you can cut through the paper backing pretty easily with your knife. I watched a lot of different drywall tutorial videos, but I learned the most from this guy.
I highly recommend binge watching his channel before getting started! Check your edges! Check the edges on your blades.
Keep them clean and if they get damaged, get a new tool. I found myself going over and over the same section of wall, trying to fix imperfections only to find out that it was my drywall knife that was causing them.
Get a comfortable tool that fits your hands. I bought a couple of new knives because the cheap ones were hurting my wrists.
The handle was heavy and was hard to hold for long periods of time. Buy a big tub of joint compound from the start. For some reason I thought that I could get by with a one gallon tub of joint compound. I burned through it quickly and had to run back out to the store for more. The worst part was that the bigger containers only cost a few dollars more for a lot more compound.
For me, I found that mesh tape was harder to cover up with mud. Because the fibers of the mesh are thicker than the paper tape, I used more coats of joint compound and had to spread the mud out farther to hide the joint. Some of those are going to be too big to just fill with drywall joint compound by itself. To be honest, this gap was probably small enough to use paper tape, but there were some areas of the wall that definitely needed the mesh. Once the mesh is over the gap, you can stuff joint compound in the gap through the mesh.
The mesh will hold it in place and allow the joint compound to set correctly. Let it dry overnight and then you can fill and sand as you would any other joint.
You could get away with only one coat, but the amount of extra mud it takes to cover them again is minimal. Use a fairly heavy pressure to scrape off any excess, then let it dry.
Joined Nov 11, Messages 13, Anywhere else it just for looks. I cannot stand having a garage with drywalled walls. It only serves to eliminate a lot of good storage areas.
It also creates issues when trying to run more romex. Joined Nov 4, Messages Dirt and dust collect at the bottom plate between the studs, cobwebs between studs, absords a lot of light lots of angles , and doesn't reflect light well.
Joined Jul 20, Messages Shitrock doesnt belong in a garage. Metal roofing for the lid, then OSB walls. Fire is the main reason if attached to the home. Then the other reasons above. James-W Well-known member. I have drywall in the garage with semi gloss paint. It looks good and is easy to keep clean. Fire and it looks good. R5P7Duster Well-known member. I do fab work in my garage so to keep the grinding and welding sparks from getting onto the lumber and Romex I used foil faced insulation and sheetrock.
Now I don't worry about a fire anymore. It also looks good finished. I have the doors built for the cabinets now, but I couldn't find the pic.
Sent from my XT using Tapatalk. MushCreek Well-known member. I just continued it all around. I did throw up some R batts just to minimize temperature swings. Our attached garage is strictly for the wife's car, and it's nice to get in a 40 degree car on a 10 degree morning. The general feedback I'm hearing is aesthetics, fire proofing, lighting, dust and spiders. I asked because my detached garage has drywall on the walls only and I'm sure nothing was done to fire proof it this was done by PO and quite half assed I might add.
I've been thinking about tearing most of it off to do some wiring as only half of the garage is wired, but I do see what people mean about its benefit for lighting and lower dust accumulation not so much with spiders, they're still everywhere. As far as it not having insulation, I live in So.
California, so heat is the main concern, but my garage doesn't have any venting on the roof anyway, so I just leave the garage door open and I'm good. Thanks for all the input, it was a question I was just curious about for so long as I just don't care for the aesthetics of drywall and was wondering what the allure was.
Arsenal of Scrappers. It's also quicker and cheaper than lath and plaster. If you don't need insulation in a mild climate, do your new wiring with either emt or pvc conduit, surface mounted. That will avoid the mess of ripping out Sheetrock, dealing with pulling nails or screws, etc. Surface mounted conduit also gives you flexibility for later changes. Leaflessshadetree said:.
Owners cut costs from ignorance and short sightedness. A contractor must remember that a bad attorney can sue them successfully for up to ten years for "substandard" work judged by those without trade knowledge Skiff Builder Well-known member. Walls-No hot work done in this shop.
0コメント